How To Connect Sponge Filter To Water Chiller

BigHildy53

My display tank (180g) is running nearly 4 degrees hotter than my sump. My sump is currently 78 degrees and my display tank is 82 degrees. Both readings have been correlated with a NIST traceable thermostat. I have a chiller available. But how do I plumb it in?

Put another pump in the render section of the sump, set the chiller to 76 degrees and put the return in the tank.

Also, does the temperature departure I don't have plenty flow through the sump?

ca1ore

That'southward a sizable difference. I'm running display turnover on the low side at 3x and have nigh no differential.

ispookie666

What size is your chiller and what flow is going through it?

I simply put a Teko 1000, way oversized for my iv x2x2. Struggled with getting the chiller to cool down, as had been using an Eheim 1000. The chiller was constantly cycling as the flow was not adequate to take the chilled water abroad.

Now I swapped that to a Jebao DCS 4000, sitting in the first bedroom of sump later mechanical filtration and retur8ng information technology to the return section of my sump. I'm planning to change the Chiller return to DT and wind back my principal render pump so that it adds an extra layer of redundancy.

LCC

My brandish tank (180g) is running almost four degrees hotter than my sump. My sump is currently 78 degrees and my display tank is 82 degrees. Both readings take been correlated with a NIST traceable thermostat. I have a chiller available. But how practise I plumb it in?
Put another pump in the return section of the sump, prepare the chiller to 76 degrees and put the return in the tank.

Also, does the temperature difference I don't take enough flow through the sump?

I have my chiller plumbed in the return (return pump, chiller, DT). I used flexible pipage from the pump to chiller then to the pvc return line. My sump is located in the basement then there is a slight temp difference between the 2. The room temp in the house is always warmer than the basement, which effects the DT temp.
Your temp difference could also exist related to any heat put off by your DT lights.
As fare as your enough flow through the sump goes. I effort to run my ghp so the DT turns over at or well-nigh 10x an hour. Which is easier to do on a 75 gallon tank than a 180.

The easiest thing to do is pass up the heater assuming your room temp is constant and the temp difference isnt related to lighting. If its related to lighting and you pass up the heater your tank temp is going to drop during the hours your lights are off.

roberthu526

The most important thing in my opinion is never have a chiller in the same room where the tank is.
The fact that the sump temp is four degrees lower than the tank temp is a good indicator that you don't have plenty flow through your return pump so the cooler h2o is trapped in your sump. Can you tell us what pump y'all are using for render and what pump are you lot using to feed the chiller?

jda

Temp probes should exist in the tank - who cares what the sump temperature is. Chiller output should go into the tank. Tank should have lots of flow to disperse the slightly cooler h2o.

BigHildy53

What size is your chiller and what menstruation is going through it?
I just put a Teko 1000, mode oversized for my 4 x2x2. Struggled with getting the chiller to cool downwardly, as had been using an Eheim yard. The chiller was constantly cycling as the menstruation was not adequate to take the chilled water away.

Now I swapped that to a Jebao DCS 4000, sitting in the first sleeping room of sump after mechanical filtration and retur8ng it to the return department of my sump. I'm planning to change the Chiller return to DT and wind back my master return pump so that information technology adds an extra layer of redundancy.

I exercise not have the chiller hooked up nonetheless; it'southward still in storage. I'chiliad thinking of bringing information technology back if I can't resolve the high display tank temperature.

theMeat

Weird. Tank and sump should be MUCH closer in temp. Would want nigh 5x the brandish tank book going through sump. 180 x 5 = 900. Don't forget to figure in head height when determining pump.

Plumbing the chiller into return line is a good selection, if the chillers size allows

BigHildy53

The nigh important thing in my stance is never accept a chiller in the aforementioned room where the tank is.
The fact that the sump temp is four degrees lower than the tank temp is a proficient indicator that you don't accept plenty menses through your return pump so the libation water is trapped in your sump. Can you tell us what pump you are using for return and what pump are y'all using to feed the chiller?

I have an EcoTech Vectra L1 DC pump. I do use a manifold for a couple of canister filters (carbon & GFO mainly). According to Apex FMM the period is routhly 540 GPH back to the display tank. I don't have the chiller setup nonetheless. I'm contemplating it. Yous think too much h2o is flowing back through the sump?

BigHildy53

Temp probes should be in the tank - who cares what the sump temperature is. Chiller output should go into the tank. Tank should accept lots of flow to disperse the slightly cooler water.

I accept a temperature probe in each. Just today I inverse the heaters against the tank temperature. The display tank temperature has dropped almost three degrees in almost vi hours. I think that's the proper solution.

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